These Arms Of Mine

Posted on August 13, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized | Leave a Comment

Sure, you can make ice cream from octopus but I’m usually not much for sweets. One of my favorite preparations of the cephalapod, octopus salad, can be found on nearly every menu in Dalmatia. My version with mussels pictured below hardly adheres to the letter of tradition, but I see nothing wrong with the incorporation [...]

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This Octopus Is Not An Octopus

Posted on July 9, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia | Leave a Comment

He looks as if he’s in a hurry to get somewhere, doesn’t he? I can tell you with all certainty that he’s not going anywhere, but I myself need to be on the docks early and will make a brief visit to Sleepy Towne soon. Allow me to point something out before I do so.
Where [...]

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The Pig on Death Row

Posted on June 16, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia, life | Leave a Comment

I’m in one of the villages outside Zagreb writing, cooking and recharging my soul to the sound of chickensong and cherries ripening. On a few occasions, I’ve smelled strange burning aromas and searched the house for flames. Silly me. It was the neighbors every time. People cook, distill and burn things on wood fires [...]

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More from Zagreb’s Fish Market

Posted on June 10, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia | Leave a Comment

The fish and the blog posts don’t get much fresher. I was just at the Ribarnica 15 minutes ago for the weekend protein and chanced upon this lovely lady axing a live šaran a question. She’s fresh, and I like it.
Speaking of money shots, these pretty boys had a little convention for your viewing pleasure:

Insert [...]

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Surprise Singing Lesson

Posted on June 10, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia, life, music | Leave a Comment

There’s a brand sparkling new public toilet facility between Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića and Vlaška Ulica, but I wasn’t going to make it. I ducked into a cafe, politely ordered a kava, and promptly aimed myself at the water closet.
When I returned, the kava was waiting patiently on the bar for me. I sat across [...]

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The Farmer’s Market in Zagreb

Posted on June 6, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia | 1 Comment

I come from a family of produce hucksters, so I love open air farmers’ markets. The sights, sounds and smells always remind me of visiting Soulard Market or Produce Row in St. Louis with my Gammy as a wee spud.
Zagreb’s farmers’ market is pretty incredible. The marketplaces I’ve seen in Croatia’s main cities can be [...]

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Burek at Pekara Arta

Posted on June 5, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia | Leave a Comment

Freshly baked breads and sweets are everywhere in Croatia. One can scarcely propel oneself 500 meters without seeing a pekara or pekarnica (’bakery’ and ‘bake shop’ respectively), and while I was in the Maksimir area of town waiting for a friend to finish work, I did some work of my own: I walked up and [...]

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Ćevapčići at BK Sava

Posted on May 25, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia | 1 Comment

I am told that the best ćevapčići in all of Zagreb are served at a place called BK Sava next to a soccer field, only about a hundred meters from the banks of the Sava River. I went to Sava to see if it was true.
I was fond of ćevapčići long before I came to [...]

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Buffet Upstairs, Band in the Basement

Posted on May 18, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized, croatia, europe, food and drink, media, music | 1 Comment

After ice cream from Vincek, I walked with Kornelija to her hiking club’s weekly meeting. It was held on the second floor of a multi-purpose building near Zagreb’s main railway station. There was some work being done on the electricity in the building that night, so the lights periodically went out during the meeting. No [...]

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Assignment: Croatia

Posted on May 9, 2006 - Filed Under Uncategorized | Leave a Comment

Gradually getting things back on track, planning to return to Croatia next week. I’ve met some extremely nice people in Budapest, but my sinuses ache from the pollution, and my soul pines for clear skies, sunshine and the bright blue water of the Adriatic. If I didn’t already mention it, I discussed my book project [...]

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