A Brief Recollection of Malvazija
Posted on October 20, 2006
The Istrian region of Croatia is enchanting not only for its magnificent landscapes, Roman and Venetian architecture and heavenly cuisine, but also for its wines. To enjoy Istrian wine is to enter another world of oenophilia. My first encounter was at Rolf and Draženka Moll’s Stancija 1904 on a dark, rainy night in Smoljanci back in April, where I enjoyed a mature Teran with the most striking herb flavors I’ve ever perceived in a wine. I’ve additionally come to love Malvazija, which carries slight whiffs of meadow grass and wild flowers under a bold bouquet and mild pucker of green apple.
Malvazija is a semi-sweet white typically served as a dessert wine, though I’d consider pairing a sparkling gemišt of it (I know, shame on me…) with a green, green salad of arugula, rosemary, grilled poultry and Granny Smith apples. It is wrought from the must of overripe grapes which, like some Montepulciano vintages, are often air-dried to concentrate flavors. If you can’t find it in your area, inform your local wine merchant that Malvazija and a few other exceptional Croatian wines are (thankfully) available in the US from Blue Danube.
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