Fife Rings Bell
Posted on September 20, 2006
If you’re standing in front of this Hajduk Split fan club mural on Split’s Riva, turn 140 degrees to your right and walk about 75 meters.
Ask any of the locals, Buffet Fife (boo-fay FEE-fay) is the place to eat in Split. Fresh, organic ingredients are prepared simply and traditionally, and the prices can’t be beat. For these reasons and others, Fife is a unanimous favorite with families and senior Dalmatians in Split. The older gentleman below arrived for an early supper a few moments after me. I think he’d just risen from his afternoon nap.
But what, in the name of all that is holy, is smoothhound, you ask? Don’t call PETA yet. Smoothhound is not dog flesh at all, but that of shark. A funny thing happened in the menu’s English translation, apparently. The Croatian word for shark is morski pas, and it translates literally to sea dog. I’ve seen a lot of menus in Dalmatia, but Fife’s was the first I’d seen that mentioned “smoothound”. If you enjoy shark, you shouldn’t be afraid to order smoothhound. Additionally, red mullets do not contain hair.
We ordered a small portion of fried squid, mixed pan-fried fish, grilled vegetables and potatoes. Though Fife was doing a brisk business that day, the food arrived swiftly and without a hitch. A soft breeze blew in, rattling the palms lightly and bringing whiffs of the rosemary and lavender planted along the promenade. The sounds of a busy Dalmatian harbor in late afternoon was all the music needed to perfect this simple, wholesome repast.
Unfortunately, Fife was fresh out of walnut crepes that day(?!), but the chocolate ones surpassed my expectations.
Buffet Fife is located at Trumbićeva obala 11 on Riva in Split, Croatia. Dress is ultra-casual, portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and reservations are hardly required. Indoor and outdoor seating is available. The short list of Croatian wines is a more than adequate representation.
» Filed Under croatia, europe, food and drink
that place looks great! I will have to check it out next time I am in split. I came across your blog a few months ago, and i am really liking it. especially the close ups of food! what are you doing in croatia, anyway?? If you are still in Split, i would also suggest nostromo, which is an awesome sea food place right by the fish market. reading this brings back fond memories of this summer.